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Jasmine in Her Hair review from "Appetite for Books: Professional Cookbook Reviews"
Lots of cookbooks recount the role of food in bonding families and friends through traditions, but like all good writing, Huma Siddiqui's book doesn't tell, it shows. Her strength and grace leap off the page with every recipe and recollection. The title comes from Siddiqui's childhood memory of weaving jasmine garlands for her mother's hair, and the book begins with a foreword written by her son and finishes with an afterword by her daughter. Both credit their mother with the comforting culture of family meals that sustained them and sparked their interest in family history and culture, which might have been lost through emigration. Siddiqui has written these recollections of family and descriptions of Pakistani life and culture for her children, but also for anyone who knows the power of food and family and is interested in the ways that power plays out around the world. Each chapter of recipes begin with Siddiqui's essays on her family, day-to-day life, and celebrations. They trace the new beginnings in her own life, her family history, and Pakistani culture. As you read you will be touched by her sincerity, and perhaps not surprised by the echoes of your own family and life experiences. You'll gain insight into an ancient culture and pick up fascinating details. The colorful bangle bracelets worn by many women embellish their saris, but are also symbols of a married woman's commitment to her wedding vows. Pakoras and samosas are not only irresistible pockets of spiced meat or vegetables, but are served with evening tea, when the family can gather and recount the day's events. The recipes are surprisingly simple with short ingredient lists and repeated techniques that make the dishes approachable. They also have that flavor that you sometimes get at a restaurant or street fair, but can never quite recreate at home. Shami Kebab, Ground Beef Patties, are made with using a counter intuitive approach. The beef is fully cooked with spices, a bit of water, and the interesting addition of yellow lentils. Be sure to cook as recommended, until all the liquid is evaporated or the patties will be very soft and won't easily hold together. In fact, after that first simmer, the fragrant meat is appealing just as it is. The patties are formed by blending the meat to a smoother consistency with egg and fresh cilantro. The recipe calls for frying the patties, but we broiled some to good effect, and if yours are firm enough, could even grill them. This is a new way to use ground beef, a kind of Pakistani hamburger helper. The vegetable dishes in particular are wide-ranging and will add new dishes, cooking technique, and flavors to your repertoire. Each one is so fragrant and so different that a plate of three or four vegetables, served with a pile of basmati rice, would make a deeply satisfying meal. Bindi Bhaii, Stir Fried Okra: completely eliminates the slime problem and as a simple stir fry, draws out flavor from the okra and onions, red pepper, and cumin. In Baigan Bhurta, Roasted Eggplant with Traditional Spices, the eggplant is first roasted in the oven, then cooled and quickly stripped of its skin. It comes out silky smooth with a faint sweetness, highlighted by a quick saute with onions, garlic, ginger, and garam masala. A finish of fresh cilantro sparks the whole dish. Chicken Tikka, Roasted Chicken Pieces Marinated in Yogurt and Spices, is one the easiest dishes to make. Tossed with spices, and marinated in yogurt, then baked, the chicken comes out most and tangy with a blend of cumin, chili, garam masala, and cilantro. Chicken Curry begins with a sizzle of cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom, and layers more spices into a saucy stew. Rice dishes are the glory of Asian cuisines, and Siddiqui offers a chapter of rice dishes that range from a simple Pulao of rice with onions to a more imposing Lamb Biryani. Siddiqui finishes the book with a few sauces and drinks-the raita, chutneys, and lassis that round out the Pakistani table. The book includes a glossary, but it is hardly needed. Her voice is so friendly, the recipes so direct, you feel her in the kitchen with you and her exotic dishes are made familiar. Appetite for Books: Professional Cookbook Reviews By Claudia Kousoulas and Sandy Tallant Claudia and Sandy are accomplished home cooks and freelance writers whose passion for good food carries them to each new book with a fresh eye. They test every book they review, looking for promises kept, and unexpected pitfalls. Their reviews give readers a real taste of every book.
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